Cristina Calderón: La dueña del fin del mundo from
PortalPatrimonio on
Vimeo.
Este vídeo fue escrito y dirigido por Hans Mulchi B.
Producción CNCA - Área de Patrimonio Cultural - Chile
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Buscando a Cristina Calderón /
In Search of Cristina Calderón
September 15, 2006
by Pablo Helguera
For some reason related to the poetic symmetry of fate, it is fitting that the last speaker of the Yhagan language would live in the southernmost village of the world. The Villa Ukika, with population of 51, is an indigenous village located South East of Puerto Williams, a Chilean village that is in turn South of Ushuaia. Puerto Williams has a population of 3000. It was originally a naval settlement, and the officers of the Chilean navy appear to still constitute the main population here.
The search for Cristina Calderón turned out to be a feat no less challenging than the search of Marie Smith Jones in Anchorage. Having been in touch via email for several months with her granddaughter, who promotes the knowledge of Yaghan language and culture, I had only obtained spotty and vague information as to the whereabouts of “La Abuela” (“Grandma”), as she is known here. When I arrived to Ushuaia, I only knew that she lived in Puerto Williams, which is 20 km. away by crossing the Beagle channel. I did not know, however, that transportation between Ushuaia and Puerto Williams is practically nonexistent at this time of year. I also was not certain to find La Abuela once I managed to cross. But there was no other choice but to try.
I finally managed to hire a transportation in a little rubber boat that crossed me, along with two Australians, to the Isla Navarino in Chile, where Puerto Williams is located. We crossed amidst snow and the frigid wind on the boat that jumped on the waves as if we were horseriding. We had to make an appointment with two immigration officers that met us at Puerto Navarino (an otherwise deserted spot) in order to get our passports stamped (once again). From there, a van took us to the other side of the island, through a dirt road (there are no paved streets or highways here), crossing snow and sleet, until we finally reached our destiny.
I walked into Villa Ukina, which has a spectacular view to the sea and the mountains. The house of La Abuela was in the center of the village. Cristina herself opened the door, and to my relief, knew who I was. But he asked me to come back at 3pm, and with her slight Chilean accent added: “but also you should know that I charge for interviews”.
READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE AT:
http://www.panamericanismo.org/
Web de The School of
Panamerican Unrest / La Escuela Panamericana del Desasosiego